Car won't start

Is the MIL indicating? Was there any signs prior to this occurring?
Get a scan to check for trouble codes.

It could be a faulty sensor or missing power supply to the ignition coils.

Yeah the MIL is indicating but I don't have a scan to check the codes. Prior this incident the car was acting up. It was shaking when it was at 10mph.
But the ignition coils are getting power. Already check with a test light

You need to get the trouble codes. They might be the key to your problems. Most parts stores provides free scanning services.

Yeah but the thing is that I can't take the car to the part stores, because it won't turn on.
What do you think it can be?

What I think is not going to be of much use because there are too many possibilities. A faulty crank sensor, engine computer, wiring circuits, engine mechanicals etc.

my car is do the samething it starts nd its good then i turn it off it will start again but the next time i turn it off it wont start it dont even turnover?????? idk wat to do

You need to check the starting circuit to see where the problem lies. It could be poor ground, ignition switch, starter, wiring or even the security system.

I have a code. It said camshaft position sensor. Now why does the sensor went bad?? Also I want to check the compression on my car to see if it
Jumped time, but I don't have a compression gauge. How can I do it???

A camshaft position sensor fault would cause non starting. Sensor can go bad due to various reasons.

A compression is not for testing if the the timing belt/chain has jumped time. You need a gauge which can be be loaned from outlets that provide such service.

What is the trouble code you are getting?

I believe the code was PO 40

I believe you have a typo error. P0340?

Yes sorry. PO 340 is the code

Here are the diagostic procedures.

DTC P0340: CAMSHAFT POSITION (CMP) SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

DTC Set Criteria

Engine speed is more than 50 RPM. Code will set if CMP sensor output voltage has not changed for 2 seconds.

Engine speed is more than 50 RPM. Code will set if normal cylinder
identification signal pattern has not been input for cylinder identification from CMP sensor and Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor for 2 seconds.

Probable Causes

CMP sensor malfunction.

Open or short in CMP sensor circuit, or loose connector.

Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module (ECM/PCM) failed.


Diagnostic Procedures (2.4L)

1. Disconnect 3-pin CMP sensor connector. Turn ignition on. Check voltage between ground and CMP sensor connector terminal No. 3. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, repair wiring between CMP sensor and MFI relay, then go to step 8.

2. Turn ignition off. Check resistance between ground and CMP sensor connector terminal No. 1. If resistance is less than one ohm, go to next step. If resistance is one ohm or more, repair wiring between ground and CMP sensor, then go to step 8.

3. Turn ignition on. Check voltage between ground and CMP sensor connector terminal No. 2. Voltage should be 4.8-5.2 volts. If voltage is as specified, go to next step. If voltage is not as specified, go to step 5.

4. Turn ignition off. Check CMP sensor connector. If problem exists, repair connector, then go to step 8. If problem does not exist, replace CMP sensor, then go to step 8.

5. Turn ignition off. Check ECM 22-pin connector C-38 or PCM 26-pin connector C-40. If problem exists, repair connector, then go to step
8. If problem does not exist, go to next step.

6. Check wiring between CMP sensor and ECM/PCM. If problem exists, repair appropriate wire, then go to step 8. If problem does not exist, go to next step.

7. Connect lab scope pick-up at CMP sensor or ECM/PCM. If connecting lab scope pick-up at CMP sensor, install Test Harness (MB991348) between CMP sensor connector halves. Connect pick-up lead to CMP sensor connector terminal No. 2. If connecting lab scope pick-up at ECM/PCM, connect pick-up lead to ECM connector C-38 terminal No. 88, or PCM connector C-40 terminal No. 56. Start engine and let idle. Compare waveform to a normal pattern. If waveform is normal, problem is intermittent. If waveform is not normal, replace ECM/PCM, then go to next step.

8. Using scan tool, clear DTCs. Test drive vehicle following OBD-II drive cycle other monitor pattern. Check for DTCs. Confirm DTC does not reset.

My 2000 Mitsubishi galant won't start
I have changed the ignition sensor and the chain. Now it is diagnosed the key . What should I look for?

Hello, I have a 2000 galant that turns over but wont start. I have check compression on front 3 cylinders and it has 150 psi on all 3. i check for spark on those 3 cylinders and if i put the spark plug in the wire and lean it against the intake i get spark on all three cylinders. i pulled the fuel rail feed line and cranked it over and fuel squirts right out so i am getting fuel and after cranking and pulling the plugs, they are wet so the cylinders are getting fuel. the car also doesnt start on starting fluid either. No codes on the dash, i have a scanner and the coolant and iat temp sensors are reading correctly to the ambient air temperature. Also with the scanner in live data it shows that the crank sensor is reading and the signal is shown when cranking. could it be reading but not reading correctly causing it not to start? when the motor cranks it cranks real fast and doesnt even attempt to pop or fire at all. I took the top timing cover off and check the cam and crank marks and they line up. any thoughts? the wires, cap and rotor are new. thanks for your help
Jon

First, is the spark to the plugs a hot blue snapping spark? Or, is it white or orange? The fast cranking concern's me. That usually indicates a timing issue or low compression. You said you checked that. When it cranks really fast, is it consistent? Are you certain the timing belt isn't broken or has jumped time? Are you able to check the rear 3 cylinders for compression?

Thank you for the fast response. I would say the spark is more of a white color rather than the hot blue. The fast cranking concerned me a bit to, thats why i thought the compression was a issue but all 3 front were 150 psi. the rear 3 cylinders are under the intake manifold, so would be alot more work to check those. i just figured if atleast the front 3 cylinders had good compression and spark it should atleast spit and sputter trying to start but not at all. juts a constant crank. it is consistent. I am certain the timing belt is intact and aligned, i took the top cover off and turned the crank pulley and watched the cam pulley turn until all the alignment marks lined up. it is such a strange problem. any thoughts? thanks again
Jon

First, the spark may not be hot enough to ignite the fuel. If there is spark and it won't even burn the starting fluid, it has to be a weak spark. I still feel there is an issue with timing or the compression if it is cranking really fast. There has to be. Also, if compression is low, it won't fire and run or even try to. Since you said it cranks really fast, that has to be the issue.

just put new coils on the car, tried a new cam postioner sensor and it still didnt work. it will turn over it just wont crank. spark plugs are good, new fuel punp timing belt and balancer belt

Coils fail internally over time.
To make sure it is the coils, get a multi-meter and test the power going into the coils. It should have 12 volts. If it does the coils are bad.

i just put new coils on today and it still wouldnt fire so i tried the cam positioner sensor

Still check power to coils.

do u think that it could be the ignition switch?

I do believe it is possible. I am giving you the engine wiring diagrams marked 1of3 and so on. You can print them out left to right and have a whole diagram. Note the starting system or igniton diagram that I gave you shows the starter switch in the igniton diagram and the diagram 3of 3. You can trace the woires as I did and find some correlation between the 2. However, I wnated you to see there are other control untis that can fail.

My 2000 mitsubishi galant isn't starting. The battery and starter are fine. whenever i turn the key it just makes a low buzzing noise. could the started be turning too slow, or what other problems should i start looking at?

If the buzzing is coming from the starter, either the battery is low on charge / defective, or the cable clamps are loose or dirty. Start by measuring battery voltage with an inexpensive digital voltmeter. You must find near 12.6 volts. If it is around 11 volts, there is likely a shorted cell in the battery.

caradiodoc

its at 12.6. the starter also tested good. i took it out of the car and plugged it to the battery. it spins just fine. i also cleaned the corrosion off of the battery. what else could it be?

actually the battery voltage was 12.5. the lights work. radio works. just not starting.

thanks for nothing! **** 2carpros.com!

thanks for nothing! **** 2carpros.com!

What does that mean and where did you learn manners? Do you think we're done? You didn't provide hardly any information so we have to start somewhere by dragging the information out of you. If you want to be secretive, don't expect us to diagnose your car over a computer. You aren't holding your monitor close enough for me to see or hear what's going on.

Now, if you want to continue looking for the cause of the problem, measure the battery voltage again, while a helper is cranking the engine, but put the voltmeter probes on the battery cable clamps, not on the battery posts. The industry standard is no less than 9.6 volts during cranking. If you find less than that, move just one probe back from the cable clamp to the battery post. You're looking for the point at which there is a big change in voltage, but this test has to be done while the starter is trying to engage. The high current will cause a voltage drop at the point of the bad connection.

If you find less than 9.6 volts right on the battery terminals during cranking, the battery is discharged or defective, or, more rarely, the starter is shorted. That's not very common.

Testing the starter off the engine is very ineffective. It will only need to draw about 30 amps that way. Even a tiny motorcycle battery can handle that. On the engine it will draw closer to 150 amps.

caradioodc

sorry it's just that i have to be at work at 5:30 and if i miss one more day then i get fired since i used up all my points. so i'm kind of in a hurry to figure out whats wrong...
the battery voltage is at 12.5, when cranked it went to 11 volts.
i also noticed that the wiring to the starter is burnt and chewed up. i'm thinking that its not giving enough power to the starter or maybe the started is just old and isnt strong enough to turn the tranny... any more tests i can try? or should i hit up the junkyard and grab a starter? thank you very much for your help

The chattering or buzzing sound you described originally is the clue I'm going by. That really doesn't sound like a bad starter unless it is shorted. Can you get your voltmeter probe all the way down by the fat cable right on the starter? If so, measure the voltage there right on the copper stud. You should find full battery voltage all the time, then, when your helper cranks the engine, watch what the voltage drops to. I suspect you'll find it is dropping real low. If so, you can move the voltmeter's probe closer to the battery to find where the voltage is being dropped. Once you cross that point, the voltage will stay higher during cranking.

Just so I'm clear, you're getting a kind of loud chattering from the starter, right?

caradiodoc

alright i'll try that out

and no, it sounds like its locking up before anything even happens

Ohhh. Do you have the little silver Nippendenso starter? It is REAL common for them to develop worn solenoid contacts. The symptom is one loud clunk each time you turn the ignition switch to "crank". If you do that enough times it will eventually crank. I ignored that for so long on my mother's Caravan until the day it took her over 700 tries before she lost count, and a blister on her thumb before it finally started.

The contacts can be replaced for under 20 bucks but most people just replace the entire starter. The proof of this problem is to measure the voltage, during cranking, on the other large terminal on the starter. It will be hidden under a rubber boot. You should find battery voltage there only during cranking. When the contacts are worn, you will find 0 volts there.

If you are careful, you can jump between those two large terminals to get the engine started. First a helper has to turn the ignition switch to "crank" to engage the starter to the flywheel, then you jump the terminals to make it spin. A jumper cable works well for that. If you don't have a helper, you can jump it yourself by first using a smaller wire from the main starter terminal to the small terminal right next to it. That will engage it to the flywheel, then also jump to the hidden large terminal to make it spin. The starter has to be engaged first so the spinning drive gear doesn't clash with the ring gear on the flywheel.

You can try a salvage yard starter but get some kind of a warranty because there's a good chance it will have this same problem. After you get to work and back home, and have the time, I can describe how to pop the solenoid cover off to inspect the contacts.

caradiodoc

thank you so much for your help! my car is still not starting though and the jumper cables are too big to fit under the headers.
i'm guessing that i'll just have to buy a starter at the junkyard for now until i have more money to buy a brand new replacement starter. I will report back to you with the results by tomorrow. thanks again

Electrical problem
2000 Mitsubishi Galant 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 136000 miles

I changed the fuel pump of my 2000 Galant because it wasen't starting. As soon as i installed the new one it turned on for like 5 minutes. I turned it off and back on and it wouldn't do it.
What can i do?

Cranks but no start condition:

Fuel and Spark

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

If you are in a fairly large city, you might have a farm supply type hardware store that has repair kits for starters. We have a small chain store called Fleet Farm that sells these kits for around 15 bucks. They include four contacts and the plunger with its contact disc. All versions of these starters use the same "battery" contact, but there are three versions of the "starter" contact. There's no way to know which one you need until you remove the cover and look inside. Then you just match the old contact to one of the new ones.

We also have a shop called TJ Rebuilders that will sell you just the contacts. Usually you don't need the plunger. But remember, this only applies to the Nippendenso starter.

Will wait to hear back.

caradiodoc

Hi. My car won't start. I bought a new starter thinking it was that and had someone put it in. Once he finished, the car still won't start. He took out the new starter and put mine back in. He thinks it's something electrical. Is that the case and if so, about how much will it cost to repair? All the lights, windows and radio work fine. Any assistance would be great. Thanks.

Do you have a multi meter to do some testing?