EGR valve ?

it's pretty much unhook electrical and vacuum if any unbolt and remove. we have no torque specs for the bolts, just don't tighten them like a gorilla, about 15 ft lbs would be about enough. make sure the egr passages are not clogged in both directions. Here is the location of the EGR valve. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

where abouts is it on the engine do you have any clue cause i look and couldnt find it thats pretty much why im asking all this

if it's a 3.1L then it's by the throttle body on rear of engine. it wil be a round looking thing with an electrical connector at top it may have a wrinkled like pipe going to it on the bottom if it's a 2.4L or 2.2. Lit doesn't have one

it dont have a EGR valve so do u know where the PCV vavle is and how to change it

why do you wan tot change this in the first place?what engine is in it

it needs to be change because my engine is starting to over heat for one cuz its not getting arid of the gas's properly. its a 2.2 ecotec engine it runs ok but over heats thermastat is fine anything else?

ya have it pressure checked for internal leaks like ahead/intake gasket

not yet thats a good idea ill try it but just hearing it run it sounds like its running smooth witch made my brother think its the egr or pcv. he's a licence mechanic im not but i do kno my stuff plus the scanner said egr valve so idk

Ok.. for a while now, whenever my car idles, its dies. It'll start back fine now that the starter has been replaced, but I've heard different things that could be wrong with it. My dad was a mechanic for a while years ago and said something about a PCV valve... the mechanic that replaced my starter said something like EGC Valve.. at Advance Auto, they told my husband some other kinda valve and online all I can find is an EGR Valve.. are all of these the same thing?? I don't know much about cars. But I know my car isn't doing what it should. Its weird though because when it almost dies, it'll stop when i hit the gas.. and sometimes the RPM thing will go up without me touching anything. I think that mechanic said something about my O2 Sensor too. I need help.. i don't wanna buy a wrong part And with all the names of valves... IHJ, EGC, EGR, PCV... which is it?

For starters, have you had the PCM (computer) scanned for codes? Autozone will do it for free. If the PCM sees a problem it will store a code that will help in diagnosing the problem. Could be the Idle Air Control Motor. Try cleaning out the throttle bore around the butterfly with carb spray and a rag, and remove and clean the IAC motor with carb spray.

How do I remove the EGR valve? Do I need to remove other parts to get to it, etc?

Thanks

Normally it is just held on by two screws, not too hard.

I bought this 1998 Cavalier in 2006 with just over 12,000 miles on it. After having it for a year around inspection time the car was acting up, as my mechanic fiance said, it was "rough idling". I would be stopped at a light and the car would try moving forward, the RPM's would just from 500 to 1500. Finally after about 15 minutes of that the light came on. At the time my Fiance worked at Pep Boys, so he took it in for the new tires, inspection and correct the Check Engine/Idle issue. The Master Tech there told me it was the EGR Valve, so I spent the money to have it replaced. All cleared and checked out ok. A month later the car did the exact same thing. So I had the warranty the EGR and replace it. My Fiance still has the part that was pulled out of the vehicle, and he says it looks perfectly fine. Which he kept the part just in case. That seemed to work, every so often the RPM's would jump for 500 to 1000 nothing as bad as before. Around the inspection in 2008... it did it again. This time worse than before, I felt as if it wasn't getting enough fuel. I had my local mechanic I went to before I met my Fiance take a look at it. He didn't find a need to replace it and cleaned it out. Around the same time my brights went out as well, during that same year, I had to replace my Altenator at 30k miles. Which they thought was unusual.They rewired my headlight issue. Up until February of this year I was doing fine. Around inspection time, my brights went out, then came back out and the passenger side went out. Then the rought idle came back in. But this time it was worse than it ever had been. The car was to the point that if I stopped, or was in the process of stopping the car would stale out. Then it wouldn't do anything until hours later. So I had to constantly drive two footed. So I called my mechanic and consulted with my fiance, and decided that the Fuel Pump needed to be replaced and that was my problem. So we replaced my exhaust system from the Cat. back. and the Fuel Pump. Car ran beautiful that day, within 24 hours car ran like crap again. So we decided that since the EGR Valve deals with carbons and half the exhaust system was new that we would go ahead and replace the Cat and front pipe. Started it up, did one choppy moment, and then it ran beautiful. A couple days later my check engine light came on, car ran fine. Ran the code it was a Downstream O2 Sensor. So we replaced that. In the last several days, my fan has been constantly running, then the Check Engine light is back on reading the same error message in Regards to the EGR Valve stuck open. We were going to replace the EGR bipass tube, but no GM dealer, has them or can get them. So he cleaned it out. We are running out of options. My vehicle is low miles, and practically fully replaced! Our last options would be a MAP sensor, and a good cleaning out of the BiPass tube again, and cleaning the EGR Gasket. Any ideas!!

I had the exact same problem. Code 404, the egr valve that sits above the exhaust manifold. My mechanic told me either to replace the egr valve or let it go, since the CHECK engine light comes and goes periodically. When it is off, everything is fine the car runs great. Then, the engine will start to misfire, followed by the CHECK engine light at the code 404. My mechanic says sometimes pieces of carbon will come off from inside the exhaust manifold causing the EGR to stick. So when it works again, it "fixes itself" by the piece coming free from normal use. The mechanic says when you put fuel injector cleaner inside it sometimes causes junk inside the engine to float away and sometimes it gets stuck inside the EGR causing the code and misfire, plus the CHECK engine light coming on.

For now, I am not replacing the EGR, but I will not be adding any more aftermarket fuel cleaners, as I've heard from more than one person that nowadays they simply are unnecessary, as long as you avoid commodity gasoline (e.g., the kind sold at a large grocery store, like Safeway).

My rule is from my training at mechanics school: Rule #1: If it's not broke, don't fix it.

Sometimes, also the cavalier has a problem with the idle air control valve, a $40 part that is easy to replace so you might want to check that out. The OBD (on-board diagnostics) will give you the trouble code and I would go from there, since you want to repair the right system or part.

1998 Chevy Cavalier 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Where can I find the EGR Valve?

All EGR valves are bolted to the manifold, and for cavaliers it is typically on the drivers side of the engine. However, not all cars have an EGR valve. It depends on the engineering designs of how cool the engine runs, and how much NOx is produced under load. If not a lot is produced in the first place, the converter would likely take care of it nicely.
I believe the '98 Cavalier Z24 models have the air/oil seperator on the block, underneath the intake manifold which requires no maintenance.

Hope this helped.

my check engine light came on so i looked up the code and it siad i need to replace egr vaulve. Could i still drive my car before replacing it without having to worry about further messing up my car???

Hi there,

You will be able to drive with it malfunctioning, but your emissions will be way out of acceptable levels, the reason why is that.

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve sends some of the exhaust gas back into the cylinders to reduce combustion temperature. This is required because nitrous oxides (nasty pollutants) form when the combustion temperature gets above 2,500 degrees F. This is as a result of the formation of nitrous oxides when the nitrogen in the air mixes with the oxygen. When it’s sunny, the nitrous oxides from the exhaust get together with the hydrocarbons in the air to form smog. This is when the EGR valve comes in handy. By recirculating some of the exhaust gas back through the intake manifold to the cylinders, we can lower the combustion temperature. Lowering the combustion temperature lowers the amount of nitrous oxide produced. Consequently, less of it comes out the tail pipe.

Mark (mhpautos)

Hi,
I had the same code come up when I ran my test on my 1997 cavalier, 230,000 miles. My car has recently to begin to run hot and I am trying to figure out what is wrong with it. I was wondering if the EGR valve might be causing this.

well it starts fine but if u put it in drive and hold the brake it makes a loud whistle noise and it hasitates to move and stalls i belive its the egr valve but could it also be mybe a bad sensor or a bad coil? what do you guys think?

Sounds more like a vacuum leak to me.

but isnt a egr valve something to do with a vacum leak and i bought a egr valve from the junk yard and it didnt work i think it was also bad and the orginal egr valave started to melt and my friends dad drilled it out and clilconed it tight and it ran decent i made it home and it started to act up again a mile or to b4 i made it home but i went about 20 miles just fine but now all it dos is whitle and hastates to move and smokes a lil white out the back

It sounds like it should be examined by a competent shop to determine what is going on there.