Engine Wont turn over?

I had the same terrible time with my liberty. No start lights and radio and acc work fine battery and starter fine but no crank the ignition actuator pin is broke in the steering column to verify no power going to your starter relay check fuse 28 with a voltmeter if fuse is good you should have 12v at the fuse when someone put the key to start you should get 12 volts.

If no remove the steering column cover 2 torx screws on bottom. Now check the red wire at the ignition switch hot all the time 12v now check the light blue / red wire at the ignition switch when you put the key to start position you should get 12v at the light blue /red wire if No your ignition actuator is the issue.

Remove the multi function switch on top remove the 2 torx screws and just move it to the side .noe remove the 1 torx screw to free the ignition switch. Now remove the key cylinder put key in the RUN position and press the tab on the bottom on the cylinder and pull the lock out.

Now remove 2 torx screws on the plate on bottom .just be careful you don't lose the spring that is inside of the plate.now you can pull the ignition actuator and ignition switch out .remove the harness from the ignition switch .now just pull apart the actuator from the switch. You are going to need T-10 And T -20 security torx bits. reverse process to install if your not sure just take some pics as you go.

Good Luck

Hello,

It sounds like you have a starter lay that is not working here's a guide to help you confirm the failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Here is the wiring diagrams and fuse and relay locations for your car.

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken

my daughter can drive the jeep for an hour or so and kill it, get back in it in 15 min or less and it will turn over but wont start. let it set for 15 or so and it starts and runs fine!

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Opened the locked Jeep with the remote, got in, turned the key, all the lights in the dash went on but the engine did not turn over. Currently, the remote(s) do not work. Headlights, turn signals, horn, power windows all work. Battery cables cleaned. Still the engine will not turn over. Had it towed to garage and the mechanic confirmed all the above and is stumped. Help please.

You sure its not coming from the security system? When you turn key to cranking position do you hear the stater motor engaging the engine or nothing at all?

When turning the key there is a "clicking" noise.

Not sure about the security system. How would I check? The switch under the steering column?

Double check the battery and connections -check the stater relay and starter motor and also the ignition switch-

I will let the mechanic know this check list. I found an explaination of the security system that is not covered as well in the "Jeep manual" on this site. It would be nice if it was not a major issue! Thank you for all the suggestions in a timely manner!!

UPDATE: Mechanic decided to disconnect the battery and go home last evening. Connected battery this morning, turned the key and it started!! Remotes work! Mechanic drove the Jeep for a test drive, could not find any problems. Explaination? Computer reset? Got my ride back and only a bill for towing! Thank you for your assistance!

I have change the spark plugs, I can here the fuel pump turn on. It acts like it wants to start, but it wont catch.

Go to this link for more information: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

will not start no spark?

Cranks but will not start replaced crank position sensor but still will not start.

scan for codes and check fuel pressure first.

Was setting at a stop sing jeep started to run ruff like it wanted to stall check engine light begain to blink on and off.Steped on the gas and jeep ran fine to about 300 yards motor started to run ruff and banging. Motor dose not crank over now.

you might have froze the motor up if it were banging. Or soemthing is locking it up. check your battery state and starter. you might also check to see if any oil is in it or not.

oil is good, was just changed. When I turn the key, motor will click. When stopped at stop sign lost RPM, then ran normal when stepped on gas.

scan for codes, check fuel pressure clean throttle plate on both sides with choke cleaner. check your starter for being bad, tap it on the body with a hammer an if it starts you need another starter.

You say all is good, was just changed?

Did you actually pull the dipstick and look?

I'm not trying to be smart, it's just that things do happen! A rock could have knocked a hole in your pan, or Joe Goofus could've been on his cell phone, instead of paying attention, when he was working on changing your oil.

You might want to test your battery and charging system also, what is your battery voltage now? Investigate this link... Just throwing out other options!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2002-jeep-liberty-instrument-cluster-goin-on-off-now-quite-vehicle-still-mov

Return soon with your results, or a big ole smile!

The Medic

Hi, I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited 4x4 3.7 engine. Sometimes it will act like the battery is dead, won't turn over, then when it finally does start, I have to depress the accelerator slightly to get it to idle. After a short time, it will idle and run properly. It doesn't always do this, but it seems to do it if I've had the AC or headlights on. I had the battery and alternator tested and they checked OK. What do you suggest I do to it?

Once it acts up again try to keep it in that bad state so there's a defect to be found, then use a digital voltmeter starting at the battery and working your way toward the starter to find the bad connection. I can send you to a web page describing that procedure in more detail. It's actually pretty easy.

The idle speed problem is due to the Engine Computer losing its memory from the low voltage / bad connection. Once that is fixed I can describe the simple fix to relearn "minimum throttle".

As you can tell by my history of question my vehicle likes to test me, LOL! That's okay, I am trying to do my best to do the work myself, because I really can't afford mechanics and I don't know who is and who isn't reputable where I am. I have a few questions, first one isn't too big though.
So, I got my battery charged and tested yesterday. They tested it before it was charged, and it said good battery, after they charged it, it says reolace and is down about 50 CCA from what I should have minimum of 600 CCA. Is there any room for error on those high tech machines? Is it normal to get a good, then replace reading after charging? Should I trust that? Thank you.

So, secondly and more majorly - they told me I need a new battery but this on will be good for a few miles. I haven't given the vehicle a good ride in a few days so I went to take it for a spin about 1:00 AM last night, LOL. About 5 miles down away, it jerked heavily, check engine light, oil light, and stalled. I pulled over, turned it off, checked under the hood. The only thing visually, is that there's something strange going on with the oil. Ill attach two images to show what is going on in my oil and I've never seen this before, I know it isn't normal but I don't know what it is or how to fix it.

My dipstick was reading full, but my car wouldn't start after shutting it off and it looked very strange and dry down in there, so I added a good bit. Given that it said it was full, I didn't want to flood, so I eyeballed the amount. After that, luckily I was able to get the car started, and whipped around and drove straight home. It was a little rough ride, for sure. My check engine codes are 0339, and 0344. Crankshaft, and camshaft. I already had the crankshaft code thrown at me a few weeks ago, so I already purchased that. I still have to replace it but the code went away after replacing ignition coil so I didn't feel urgency. I am going to order a camshaft sensor, and replace both of them.

I read online that stalling with the 0344, is usually a symptom of a faulty wire. Now, that worries me because I am not an electrical genius! I can undo a few sensors, and replace them, but what if the issue is electrical? How can I diagnose that?

Could the 0344 and 0339 sensors be related to the oil problem? Also I use the correct oil for my truck, and I use Lucas additive because without it my truck burns through the oil.

In the video I am attaching of the oil, that was taken literally as soon as I broke down, and before I added oil. As you can see on the cap, and down in there, shades of white and brown. That is new and clearly not good. It's never been like that, always black and no residue. If you notice I also struggled to get that piece under the cap out more than usual, almost like it melted in there, got a little too hot maybe? So after I added the oil and was able to drive home, the oil light didn't come back on. What could be going on?

For info on what I use as oil, I am currently using Quaker

Sorry for this loaded question, you guys are genuinely my life savers. Thank you so much, have a great day

Edit: For some reason my videos always cut off when I view them, I don't know if you see them cut off or not. When Google drive processes the video, I will put up a public link to view it. Sorry for technical difficulties

Hello my name is Dave.

Your research sounds fairly accurate as far as a wiring issue which is usually the case when you have codes for both the cam and crank sensor as you do. Here is a link to our tutorial on testing wiring:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I am also including a link to our tutorial on using a voltmeter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

I have also attached a diagram of the engine and sensors, I would start by checking for the 5 volt reference to both sensors, moving the wire while checking them to see if it effects the voltage as a lot of times when the wires are broken and/or shorted the voltage will fluctuate when the wires are moved. Please keep us up to date on your progress and thank you for using 2CarPros!

Okay, I will get started on looking at those wires today.
Now, is the cam and crank/wiring related to my milky oil? Or is that a separate issue?
I am hoping it's just condensation in the oil, because these past few weeks I've driven my truck less than ever because I have my late grandfather's car too. I thought maybe since my Jeep sat for a while, and with extreme weather changes, it hasn't been able to burn off vapor. Could that be why it's milky? But I did stall and break down, oil light and check engine light. I was able to get home after adding a little oil. what do you think?

We handle one problem per thread. we will handle the no cranking on this one. Lets test the battery ourselves. here is a guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down this guide and report back.

Post additional subjects here. Please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

That is solved, my battery is dead. Thank you!

Glad you could get it fixed. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

My vehicle has lots of power (I jumped the starter) but will not turn over with the key.The small wire at the starter also will not power up at any key position. I have checked the fuses and all seem well. I am stumped ?

Use voltage tester on the fuses in the diagram, check for voltage. Even if the fuses are good, if no voltage, the circuit is dead. One of the fuses is hot all the time, one goes hot with the key in the crank position, the other goes hot with the key on. At the starter relay, terminal 30 is hot all the time, terminal 86 goes hot with the key on, no crank. The coil side of starter relay is grounded by the pcm. The pcm receives a crank signal from one of the fuses already listed, in the diagram, goes hot with key in the crank position. Also, your clutch switch could cause a problem? Any testing make sure the tranny is in neutral and a functional e-brake is set. I looked a liberty limited.

I'll check this out. I just noticed that when I try to start it, there is a key with a slash through it on the dash. I cant recall seeing this before. Could it be in some kind of security shut down? Is the clutch switch the piece that is on the rod that goes through the fire wall ?
Thanks for the help by the way. : )

If the problem is your theft system, I can't trouble shoot without using a scanner on it. Did you try a different key?

The clutch switch should be located at the left rear of engine compartment. I tried to post a couple of diagrams, didn't work for some reason?

I found a chafed wire down by my 4wd driveshaft fixed it and now it cranks over, white wire with black stripe

Great information. Thanks. I have actually seen something very similar. I think there is a TSB out there for this harness chafing so apparently we aren't the only ones.

Thanks for adding your input.

Steering problem
2002 Jeep Liberty 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My key will go in the key hole but it wont unlock to turn over or start . the ignition is locked up ???? what would this be ?

Unfortunately, this is very common with the Jeep Liberty.....The ignition key lock manufactured was inferior in quality...You will have to change the ignition lock in order for it to work again...You will also probably end up with two separate keys, one for the ignition, 1 for the door lock