Car will not start

Hello,

The reason that your vehicle will not start is because of it's Passive Anti Theft System (PATS). You will have to have your new ignition key programmed to the PATS module by either the Ford dealership or a locksmith. These are the only two that have the ability to do this. It is done that way as a safety precaution so that people can't steal your vehicle.
Your vehicle uses a chipped key and there is a transponder ring around the ignition lock cylinder that acts like a radio receiver. There is a transponder chip in the key that acts like a radio station. If the code from the key dose not match the one programmed into the PATS module it will not send the start signal to your vehicle's Power-train Control Module (PCM). The PCM controls your vehicle's engine, allowing it to start and run. I have included a description from the Ford Motor Company on PATS operation in the diagrams down below.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Thank you very much.

Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

I have tried to see about getting this car running, it has been sitting a little over a year under a open carport. It is not firing. I have replaced the coil pack. I am not sure what to do next.

Hello,

Yes these cars had a problem with the crankshaft angle sensor going out. But to be sure we are headed in the right direction do you have spark at the plugs?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

Hello,

There is a PCM relay I want you to check, also is the security light flashing when you try and start it? Here is a wiring diagram to help you see the system and what should have power. Please check all fuses. If okay I would suspect the crankshaft angle sensor. Here are some guide to help us get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

I recently had an issue when my car wouldnt start. when i took it into the shop they told me i had a parisidic draw on my battery. they unplugged it and the next day it read i had no draw on my battery. now the car is starting to act up again. The mechanic told me i might have to get a new battery however it turns over i just have to hold the key in the starting position for nearly 3 times longer then i usually have to. Im curious if a new battery is neaded or if it could be an issue with my fuel injecters, air intake or my fuel pump. I just had a used engine put into the car and the battery is about 2 years old.

Any suggestions would be apreciated.

Your battery would have to be tested to answer that question.

[quote:6bdfd65e07="Wrenchtech"]Your battery would have to be tested to answer that question.[/quote:6bdfd65e07]

I had it tested and it passed or exceeded the tests. walmart said it was a perfectly fine battery. however the test was done prior to taking it to the mechanic

Here's how you would test for a parasitic draw.

You will need a digital ammeter and a jumper wire with clips on the ends to do this.
First rig any door switches so you can have a door open without triggering the interior lights and unplug the hood light. Remove one battery cable and attach the meter in series between the battery cable and battery post. Take the jumper wire and also attach it the same way. Leave the jumper wire on for at least 10 minutes to expire all the automatic timers. Now remove the jumper wire and read the meter. Anything over 50ma is too much draw. The way you locate this is to start removing fuses one at a time until the meter drops to normal level. This will be the circuit with something staying on. Determine what components are part of that circuit and check them individually until the problem is isolated.

About three months ago I began to have problems with my Taurus failing to restart after a recent shut down and I'm also beginning to get sudden stalls or near stalls. If the engine stalls, it fails to restart.

I have found that if I let the car sit at least 15 mins w/o an attempt to start, then it will usually fire right up w/o an issue. If it does fire w/n the first 15 mins then it just chugs at about 300-500 rpm for a few seconds and then dies.

Starting with the first occurrence, I had shut off the engine and tried to start again about ten mins later. It ran very rough, almost like when you pull the fuel pump fuse, except it ran longer, and then died. I tried to restart several more times (good crank but no fire) and then called for a tow. When the tow showed up the car started w/o an issue. A few days later a got an engine code. I don't recall the code but it went out on its own. Due to the mileage on the car I went ahead and replaced the plugs, wires, coil, PCV and cleaned the MAF sensor. A week later I got the same code; I'm thinking it was P1151, but it had something to do with possible fuel pressure issues. I was also getting some rough idling (around 700-800 rpm). The code has not reoccurred since replacing the fuel pressure regulator (I was getting minimum pressure readings). I also cleaned the IAC.

In total its failed to restart about ten times. I've also noticed some rough idling when at a stop. It will sometimes drop to about 700 rpm. A few days ago my son said the car almost stalled and the engine lost power (no response to the throttle) while he was driving. Then yesterday, it stalled on me at a light and again failed to restart, except for one short rough idle start. I let it set for an hour and it fired right up.

I've not had any engine codes other than the one related to fuel pressure and that last occurred two months ago. Yet, its failed to start after a short shut off at least four times and has stalled w/o a restart once since the last code.

I've read several comments about similar engine issues and about the MAF and IAC and how the PCV valve can cause issues with the IAC, but I think all is ok with these systems. I also cannot find any vacuum leaks. Last year, after a similar stall, I had a code that eventually lead to the EGR sensor and I found a hole in the crank case ventilation line as well.

I've read where some folks have experienced the anti-theft light when their Taurus' have died indicating a possible issue with the anti-theft system shutting off spark and fuel. I've not noticed this but I'm begining to wonder if it might be an issue. Unfortunately, we lost the other key 13 years ago and I do not have a second key to play with to see if the anti-theft might have an issue with the key.

i would start with a fuel pressure test to verify correct pressure

Roy

The pressure tested on the low end two months ago so I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the pressure was fine after that.

i would look at it again. if it is low, the fuel tends to boil causing your condition.

Roy

its an easy test so i'll try and find atest kit with a ford adapter - the last three I've rented were missing the schrader valve part

hi the proublem i'm having with my car is it will not start when i turn the key it makes no clicking noise or anything and my directionals dont work but if i run a wire from my fuse box under the hood to the fuse box in the car i can then go back under the hood and start it through the starter relay i hope you can understand what i'm saying and thank you for your time

Check fuses and wiring
if all ok suspect ignition switch
good luck

i have a 1999 ford taurus se when i turn the key it wont start the heater won't come on the turn signals don't work but the radio works i checked the wires did find anything wrong with them fuses are all good i thought it might be the computer that sits in the right side firewall might be bad but it's not was hoping you could give me a clue sorry to bother you again i'm just not sure what else to look for so if you could please help me out i would grateful thank you very much.

You do not have the second feed from the ignition switch \
possibility fuses and or fusible link
wires bad ignition switch
(if its the computer it will not run when u supply power )
and I do NOT suspect computer
most common we seen some one cut the wiring harness to install remote start and or alarm system and the wires become loose
check that good luck

thank you very much. i was wondering if you could help me out on another question i have a 95 rodeo when i go down the road in it. it spits and sputters i changed 3 feul injectors and i changed the map censor twice the reason i changed it twice i thought i might have got a defective one the first time.when you go down the road it just looses power.if you could give me a clue on that i would greatly app. it thank you.

Need more info,
Do you have a hard brake paddle when stopping?
does it idle rough?
I would check EGR valve
I'm assuming you checked the tune up and timing too
do u have check engine light on ?
good luck

My car wont turn over. I have a 1999 ford Taurus lx. The lights turn on and i think the battery is fine. My car over heated on the 30th of dec and stopped on the hwy when i was driving home, a 4 hour drive. I made it almost 4 hours. It turned over and drove a little further but it wouldnt go any faster than 40mpg and as it died the speed slowed to 30mpg til it just died. I let it sit overnight because it wouldnt start after it died a second time. i towed it to my apt. but it needs to be fixed and i dont know whats wrong.
Before i drove home, my dad replaced the thermostat because my heat wasnt working, and he said the radiator fluid was all gone, really empty. My mom said she didnt know how i got there with no fluid. When my boyfriend looked at my car after it died the second time, he said the fluid was gone to... he replaced it and i havent checked it since. What is wrong?

Check oil look like chocolate malt? if yes then headgasket failure

If its not?

check engine compression that will tell if headgaskets have failed

how much would this be to repair?

Car was tinking, sort of metal on metal noise, and would not accelerate. All of a sudden the engine seized and would not start again, and began bellowing white smoke from above the alternator, from deeper in the engine bay. what could it be?

Not cheap @$1500

have it checked for a head/intake gasket leak

Does it matter if all the electrical is not working now? does that change anything?

Also, the tinking could have been from a vavle or ring from inside the cylinder that locked up the cam/crank shaft.
Either way, you are going to have to take the heads off to see.
Try rotating the crankshaft pulley in the opposite direction from operation to see if it moves. (take the belt off)
If it moves, something is preventing the proper movement like an obstruction.
If it can not move, then it may be warped.

Good luck.

Would your diagnosis change if the electrical systems wont work? my lights and power lock, its like my car battery isnt working....

have the batt checked along with the alt,hopefully thats all it is.good luck hope i helped.

1999 Ford Taurus

My car started to over heat while on the high way and when my husband went to pull over and it stalled, he let it cooled down but the battery died so he tried to get a jump and it didnt work we replaced the battery and it still will not start. Someone told my husband vapor lock. What do you think?

Engine cranks but will not start after overheating I would suspect
Headgasket may be at fault
next step would be a compression check

Thank You!!! Will check it out.

I've had this car for just over a year. The last 6 months or so its gotten to where if I'm traveling for more than 30minutes it stars to xhocking out. I have to ether pull off and restart it or restart it in neutral. It doesn't get hot. And it only has to sit a minute or so before recranking. It gets up and goes just fine but if I'm going to travel for more than 30 miles. I'm on the side of the road. Help please?!

I would suspect fuel pump
Check fuel pressure and if have check engine light on check for codes