engine is not starting up?

Do you mean the engine is cranking normally and just would not fire up or do you hear the starter spinning without the crankshaft turning over? These are two different problem and would be due to different causes.

For the former, the temperature sensor could be the cause and it could be due to a blown fuse or a shorting somewhere. You would need to perform some diagnostic test to find the cause. Check out the link below for an understanding of how to diagnose non starting situations.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

For the latter, it could be a bad flywheel ring gear and the starter is not able to crank the engine though it is spinning.

A new fuel pump fixed my car. thanks for the guide. It helped me. :)

Was running then it would try to crank but wouldn't and now it is not getting any fire to the electronic distribution.

Hello,

It sounds like the EFI relay has gone out. but to be sure here is a guide to help test the relay with the location of the relay in diagrams below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Hello, 1992 Celica 2.2 5spd. G.T. Hatchback : complete tune-up just done in July, plugs,wires,cap,rotor,new distributor,new radiator,all belts replaced,etc. Vehicle was running excellent for 806 miles then all of a sudden engine stopped running while smoothly cruising at 35 m.p.h. Towed home, checked the fuse and relay box under hood drivers side, found "30amp fuse" blown. The Chiltons manual refers to this as"AM2 30a": ignition system, electronic fuel injection system and "IGN"fuse. Replaced main and fuel inj. relay and the "AM2 30a"fuse only to have the fuse blow again when cranking it over but would not run. Diagnostic plug accessed to jump fuel pump but no power at the B+ at all. Please help, thank you.

Hi
Try this disconnect Igniter and crank does fuse blow?
Let me know
Thanks for donate

Hello again, un-plugged igniter, still blew fuse, tried twice to confirm. What next? Thanks. Will make another donation when we solve the problem, hope to here from you soon, thanks again!

Coil and injectors powered on that fuse maybe coil internaly shorted on injector and/or wiring chafed and grounded. Remove positive connection from coil isolate fron block. crank fuse blow? also check wirirng to injectors

Hello,disconnected all distributor conns., igniter and all conns. between dist. and fire wall, and found no issues with wire harness under hood, blew 5 more fuses,(AM 2 30a's) Could issue be under dash, maybe ignition or something? can i disconnect the ign.switch and jump the wires to eliminate the switch as the problem, and if so can you define the wire color code? Thanks again.

Fuse only blows when cranking? not with just key on?
did you ever get power on test conn. B+? check 15amp EFI fuse. can't see ignition switch to be fault. cooling fan temp. sender and AC pressure swqitch on that fuse. did you unplug all injectors?

My car is reving up to start but wont. Pep boys says it's the fuel pump. A side mechanic says it's not a fuel problem. The side guy said he'll look at it and when I came back the car started like it always did everynow and then. Sometime it started and sometime it wouldn't. So I asked him what did he do and he told me well (I can't tell you the tricks, so I said well I'm not paying you cause I'm not paying for any tricks. Then he said he adjusted the flapper in the throttle body, or something like that. So I drove a few miles and the car cut off. What could it be? Do you think pepboys was right about the fuel pump?

have pepboys confirm it with a pressure test. my bet is a fuel pump

Roy

He does have his own shop, that's why I called him a side guy. He just told me that Im not having an fuel problem its an electrical problem. He said I may need an ignitor or something. I may take it back to pepboys and cut my loses, do you agree? Is there anything else you can tell me about this? And I just want to say people like you to help others out there is a god send and I thank you so much.

And I was also trying to save some money that's why i went to the side guy. I did tell the other guy I need a fuel pump and filter and the other guy said how do you know its the fuel pump and I then said, thats what pepboys told me. Thats when he said it wasn't a fuel problem and such. I just thought I should ad that for your information.

when you go back to pepboys, have them give you the exact fuel pressure and compare to the needed readings.

they should have done this as per there diagnosticprocedures and condeming a part

Roy

When the engine is cold, it starts fine. If I take the car somewhere (ex. to the store) and I'm only in the store about 20-30 minutes, it won't start OR it is extremely hard to start. It turns over, but won't start. If I wait an hour or more, it will start up fine again. I have taken it to a Toyota dealer. I paid hundreds of dollars for diagnostics. They kept the car for almost a month and then they told me to replace all the fuel injectors and fuel pressure gauge. I did that. I've also been buffaloed into replacing the distributor and fuel pump. It still won't start if the engine is warm. Any ideas? Thanks for your time.

Most or the time when you have a won't start hot condition, it is the ignitor in the distributor, if that was changed with the dist. (some come with a new one some do not). Then check fuel pressure and spark during this no start period.

Then I would suspect a relay in the fuse box, one called engine main.
I would go to a junk yard and buy the whole fuse box assy. (usually $20). Then you would have almost all the relays you would need to trouble shoot. It may also be a good idea to re-seat all the relays and fusible links, looking for burnt areas on the contacts.

Also make sure all the battery grounds are clean and tight.

Did a compression and blow by test on engine 5S-FE now engine won't fire, all fuse's ok connections ok no fault codes shown, checked dizzy, leads, plugs, coil ok.. Engine ran ok before i did tests .. Anyone heard of this happening before and what would be the fault.

Are you getting spark to the plugs? Fuel pressure? Are the plug wires in the correct order?

I just realized you said there was no spark. Check to make sure there is power to the coil. If there is, suspect the coil.

Coil tested within spec. have ordered new coil and igniter to test .. weird to have a failure while doing a compression test.

The only thing I can think of is if you didn't ground the coil and it damaged itself.