my engine is hard to start?

Has the check engine light come on? it sounds like a weak fuel pump. These guides will help fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Please run down these guides and report back.

thank you for the guides I found out it was the engine coolant sensor, I got new one the truck has never run better! god bless you guys.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

My 97 3/4T does not like to start. I can hear the fuel pump kicking on when the ignition is turned on. I cycle the ignition (priming?) then attempt to start. The truck cranks over and over; after a while it will sputter, then finally start. I replaced the fuel filter, did not affect anything. Fuel pressure (schraver valve) is at 30psi when ignition is turned on, and 30psi when running. Once, the psi was at 50psi when checking. Is this a fuel pump going out or a problem with the fuel pressure regulator?

soounds like the fuel pump to me. does the pressure bleed down at all when it is just sitting?

Nope, stays around 30 psi, increasing a couple psi when revving engine. Gonna change fuel pump tmrw. If it doesn't fix it, I will be back on here learning from anyone I can. Thanks.

let me know what you find out

Engine cranks slow and hesitates before starting

I'd make sure the battery has a full charge and the cables/wires are all clean and tight on both ends.

You can take reading across your battery posts, with everything turned off, take another reading with the engine cranking. Usually with the engine cranking, that voltage reading shouldn't drop below 9 or 10 volts.

Engine Performance problem
1997 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 130k miles

Have to use gas pedal to start engine sometimes when engine is warm. Starts fine when cold (even winter in MN).

Could be a couple of things that we have seen in our shop in the past. One is temperature sending unit is not reading correctly which could be why it starts good when it is cold. The temperature sending unit tells the computer to run lean when warm or rich when the engine is cold. After the Engine warms up and then you shut it down, then try and restart the temperature sending unit is sending info to the computer to run rich when in fact the engine is warm then makes it hard to start because of a rich fuel mixture. The other item is fuel pressure sensor or regulator not functioning correctly.

i have try to start a few times before it starts but after its run its still a little hard to start sometimes but it will start easier after being already started and run awhile

You need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge before starting it. This system is very pressure sensitive. You need at least 55PSI to start and it should come up to that pressure in 1 to 2 seconds.

Truck would not start. A little ether and starts and runs until it burns off. Eventually it will start, then run normally the rest of the day. I changed the fuel filter and am hoping I don't have to drop the tank to change fuel pump.

I would recommend checking fuel pump pressure when it doesn't start. It sounds like you have a problem with the pump. Many parts stores will lend or rent a gauge to you if you need one.

My truck is turning over very slowly, and its only a matter of time before I don't make it to work, because it's getting worse. I don't have the tools for the job, so I started with the battery. I got it covered under warranty. I replaced the battery this weekend, but I still have the same problem, so I'm wondering if it's the alternator?

I'm wondering if it's the alternator, because that was replaced about a year ago. I would say there have only been 10,000 km's since replacement.

Any way to test out an alternator cheaply?

remove the neg. wire on the battery if the alt. is bad the engine will stall out.

Well I guess the Alternator is good, and I have a new battery. So what else could make a truck turn over slowly? It turns over like the old 425 big block I use to have. It almost stalls just before it catches. It wasn't like it before. When the winter gets here in a few weeks it won't start at all.

Solenoid/Starter?

I know the former owner had that replaced about 3 years ago.

take it to parts store and check the cranking amps of the starter.the battery must have the proper cranking amps also.do a complte chargeing sys. test.3 or so years is good life for a starter.if winter coming i would fix that puppy. ty for using 2carpros

When I go to start up my truck, mostly in the mornings, or if it sits for about a day, its really hard to start up. It takes about an average of 6 or 7 turns of the key to start. In some cases even 10 times it takes. Would the fuel pressure regulator do this? If I run it for a while, it will start fine if I try to start it in the next couple hours after I'm done without a problem. Why does it do this? Any help would be greatly appriaciated. Thanks

It sounds like one of three things, a weak fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, or leak in the fuel system. What you need to do is check the fuel pump pressure at the fuel rail. Pay special attention to how quickly the pressure drops off.

Let me know what you find.


https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

NOTE: You will need a pressure gauge. Most parts stores will lend or rent them.

Let me know if you have other questions.
Joe

My pickup 1500 5.7. Starts fine when cold. Hard start when it is warm, loses power when shifting into gear. I have to put the gas pedal to the floor to start it when warm. I replaced idle air valve and temperature sensor. Any ideas?

check fuel pressure with a gauge should be 60-66 psi key on only. if lower that is your problem. then scan for codes if that does not fix it. auto parts rent gauge a lot of times pump gets hot and weak. See link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

when driving there is and intermitten problem with the engine. can drove for about half and hour then the engine starts to stall and bogg down when coming to a stop and idling. i have change pcv, done tune up, changed idle air control valve. i need to know the other possible things to look for.

Mass air flow, or MAP sensors will also cause this, MAF especially if you have modified air filter installed. Throttlebody has been cleaned? You may have a vacuum leak, get a can of spray gumout, spray the vac lines and maniflod area, when the idle changes, youve found the leak! You want the engine running and spray on the outside but do direct the stream onto the hoses, if it is a vacuum leak, the engine idle will change speed, then you have detected a leak, repair the vacuum leak and see how it runs!

Engine died while idling after a 2 hour drive. Was cold out thought ice, warmed up in garage did start after starting fluid sprayed into tbi. But was hard to start had to pump pedal finally ran. Will start after sitting for a couple hours and run fine. However after sitting overnight only way to start is by starting fluid. Check engine light is on. Not exactly sure how to pull codes though. Does this sound coil related or ECM or neither. The best I can do is start replacing parts.

sounds like a fuel pump. have the pressure checked to verify before throwing part at it.

pumping the accelarator pedal does nothing to help it start

Roy

So a fuel pump would act like that? Not work durning cranking, but once running it kicks in? Have had a few pumps fail and they were totally failed. I should be able to hear pump with key on correct? Thanks for help. And pedal will do something once it fires correct?

the pump may run for 2 seconds with key on.

pedal work with it running, obviously.

pumps can be intermittent. thats why you need to confrm first with an actual test

Roy

Ok thanks. Ya I guess that's what I meant once it fired I really had to pump it to keep it running for prob 30 to 40 sec until it finally runs normal. Will let you know outcome. Thanks for help

good luck

Sorry I never posted what the fix was. After I was sure it was getting gas, I changed my thought process. Symptoms were now acting like a ignition control module. That did the trick. Easiest fix I have had in a while.

I have removed all the smog lines from my truck and now when I start it cold it will not Idle steady and almost always dies soon after being started after several starts when it reaches operating temperature it runs fine.

Recheck to make sure you haven't disconnected any vacuum hoses. If you removed every thing, it will be difficult for me to help identify the problem.

all lines have been plugged except for the vacuum advance and cruise control so what else needs to be hooked up in oreder for the engine to run without problems