fuel pump fuse location

There's no fuse for it the PGM FI main relay powers it when the key is turned on here is a guide to help you test the relay and diagrams below to show you the location.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

In fuse panel under dashboard behind left kick panel. Fuse #2 - 15Amp fuse controls PGM-FI Main Relay & Fuel Pump.





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Quick question no start replaced a lot of parts when probing yellow wire to fuel pump assembly.. supposed to supply 12v to pump i have res to grd Is there supposed to be resistance to ground there.

Check/test the main relay

Relay is good checked several times pump does not prime however provides pressure when cranking ecm comes on energizes relay after some time tinkering I decided to look for a grounded fuel pump...internally grounded as I have had an issue like this with a different vehicle. Removed 3 pin connector at fuel pump...probed the yellow wire which supplies twelve volts to the fuel pump this test was done with harness d/c at the fuel pump between yellow wire and ground I have approx 50-150 ohms...

Vehicle wont start I have tested injectors, relay, dist, cap rotor wires ecm pulses injector wires I have 12v hot to injector wires ..tested all fuses...reset ecm...blinking s light and no start

Vehicle does crank....should have added that

Recheck it -Remove the main relay and then test the yellow wire to direct ground

1991 Honda Accord 4 cyl Automatic

I have a '91 Honda Accord that quit working while driving down the road. I have replaced the battery, alternator, spark plugs and wires, distributor car and rotor button, and the ignition coil. The car will cranks and turns over easy, but will not fire. We do not hear the fuel pump turn on so wanted to check the relay the the fuel pump. Where is the fuel pump relay located on a '91 Honda Accord? and is the fuel pump in the gas tank?

The PGM-FI main relay powers the fuel pump and the fuel pump is in the fuel tank

I have spark and fuel to rail but only when cranking....sorry for so many replies but adding all that I have done replaced ecm was in water replaced dist...replaced main relay because I foolishly thought with blinking s light it was bad codes 7 and 8 from tcm both shift solenoid codes

Ok but as I stated I tested the yellow wire at the fuel pump not harness side of the wire

Dunno the total resistances of the fuel pump motor windings-as you've check it and its 50-150 ohms

Do this power the fuel pump direct from the battery and see what happens

Ok just a hick update sorry took so long to get back here...I pulled injectors have great spray all four plugs firing ..firing order correct....manually cranked engine by hand to ensure distributor seated correctly it is......s light stopped blinking....still no start checked ect...tps....iat ..seems like my map sensor isn't showing correct return voltage for 0 in/hg only have .19v returning which appears to be what it should read at full vacuum...I don't have a vacuum pump so I can't test other voltage readings...I think I am going lil crazy here thanks for your time PS bout 150 psi per cylinder compression I really am losing it this is the second new distributor I put in because the first one I got had a bad reluctor ...I am sad

Check the valve and ignition timing if its correctly set.

This accord has a habit of not starting when the fuel level goes below half a tank. Above that no problem, but as soon as it gets below that mark it will die or if you turn it off it won't start again. Changed fuel pump, cleaned tank, replaced fuel filter, replaced pump relay. Any help would be appreciated. Not much hair left on my head from this one...Thanks..Tigerguy05

If the fuel sending unit has been changed and it is new, the nest suspect will be the coil behind the gauge or the wiring from the fuel tank to it.

I should have mentioned that I did pull the valve cover all the mechanical reasons for it to not run are sound the rebuild was done by an excellent machine shop here however I did visually verify the valve timing

Is the fuel pump coming on and has the correct fuel pressure? I need the fuel pressure before I can continue to help you-

Ok first of all I just want to say thank you...I have been so frustrated with this car I have about 15 years experience as an ase tech and have never had this issue before. Course I never was very good at electrical so here's a breakdown of some updates...the s light no longer blinks the fuel pump currently primes properly I have 43psi during prime and while cranking..it seems I have worked out alot of the electrical issues removes and unstuck egr pintle sensor and map sensor which was sending a full vacuum signal to the ecm..now has the proper 3 volts...here's the kicker the car ran albeit not great before I replaced the distributor...I have a sneaking suspicion the distributor is bad this was the second one I got from napa the first had a bad reluctor I pulled the injectors to verify nice conical spray...I have spark...mechanically the timing is on it really wants to start but just won't

Inspect and test the TDC sensor in the distributor

I have a 91 Honda Accord DX and when I start it I lose power to the fuel pump. I am thinking it might be a relay problem. I don't know where the relay is. Can you help me?

Test the PGM-FI Relay it powers the fuel pump-see below

Sorry so long to update 390 ohms tdc sensor I may add also that it def flooding I can smell fuel in the oil so I am cranking it empty w starter bypass right now

Also the plugs are black as can be

Anyone?

I was having some issues with my ignition switch. I was told the wires were getting to hot and shorting out. Causing a bad connection to my fuel pump. So i bought a new ignition switch and lock. Still wont turn on. The ignition turns over, but wont start and you cant hear the fuel pump kick in. How can I tell if its the pump or the relay?

If there is no power getting to the pump then it's the relay.

Do I have to have a fuel pump relay in fuel system wiring? If I connect my fuel pump to a toggle switch that I can turn off and on, will everything work ok? What stops the fuel pump from overflowing the carb bowl and continuously pumping? Is that what the relay does? I have an 87 Honda Accord DX but have removed the factory carb. I have a Weber 38 on it instead.

yes you do it's under the dash on left side pic included.

So does the relay control the fuel flow? Does it turn it off and on based on different rpm conditions? I thought the relay was more of a large fuse. Is that not the case?

it's a relay and if you are jumping it and the pump works then it sounds as if the relay isn't working. Usually the oil pressure switch takes over after initial start up with the engine.

I swapped out the relay and it still didn't work. If I jump it, it does work. If I run a seperate wire from the ground terminal to a ground spot nothing happens. The relay has 4 terminals +,-,Fuel Pump, and Ignition. I'm not getting power to the ignition terminal. That's why I wanted to wire a switch in seperately. Could it be my oil pressure switch is malfunctioning? It is a carb car, no ecu. How does the fuel pump get a signal from oil pressure?

ok yours is a little different. in the pic i've included the yellow wire goes to the fuel pump. the blue comes form the ignition coil and balck to ground. the other wire goes to fues 1 and should power up with thekey on. if one of these aren't working like the power up an dignition coil your pump wont' work. you can test these with a test light. It may be a bad connection or broken wire on any of these.

For carburetted engine, there is an ECU, Emission Control Unit, which controls the various solenoids and valves but is not related to the fuel pump relay.

If you do not have any power from the ignition terminal, that is the problem you need to address. Ignition terminal receives its pulse from the ignition coil and would only work while engine is being cranked or is running.

Oil pressure switch is not related to the fuel pump relay operations.

Check the continuity of the Blue wire from ignition coil. If the tachimeter is not working, the ignition coil could be faulty.

Using a toggle switch works but is not safe as the fuel pump would not cut off when engine stalls and that is a safety hazard.

how can i get a picture removal guide to replace the fuel pump relay on a honda accord lx ?

[quote:1ca4a1006e="dolphins"]Electrical problem
1990 Honda Accord 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 175,00 miles

how can i get a picture removal guide to replace the fuel pump relay on a honda accord lx ?[/quote:1ca4a1006e]

What keeps the fuel from continously flowing? If the pump has constant 12 v power and is always on (like with a toggle)? Would the carburetor flood out the intake? Is there some sort of pressure cutoff in the pump or in the plumbing?
I do see how this is a safety hazard.

Can anybody help to try to get a picture n insructions on how to remove the fuel pump relay on my car- honda accord lx please ?

you obviously don't understand a lot of mechanical things. the flow rate is set at the factory for thefuel pump. when you turn the key off it no longer flows. there are other safety things that will shut the fuell off as well. it is not a safety issue. only when you put a switch in teh system like you have to jump the system then it becomes a safety issue