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https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1989-ford-tempo-98-tempo-bran-new-battery-shut-car-off-didn-t-days-now

RETURN WITH GOOD NEWS

THE MEDIC

I have already done everything sugested in the youtube film clips. I am down to one fuse now and that one is the "interior lamp" 10 amp fuse. There is a module under the dash up high on the right hand side, some refer to it as the alarm module and others call it a multifunction module.
There is a relay in or on that module that I can hear and feel open and close when I remove and replace the fuse. I think the relay should open when the ignition switch is in the OFF position and the clock display should be off and the current draw should go down to 50 ma or less and it doesn't. What is keeping the relay energized and the clock display on with the ignition off.
Is the module the problem or is it something external to the module? Where is the voltage comming from that keeps the relay energized?

Thanks in advance for your help.

John

I would contribute more but I don't see a place to do that now.
Thanks
John

MAYBE THE RELAY IS STUCK?

THUMP THAT PUPPY!!!

SWAP IT WITH AN EXACT TWIN----JUST FOR A TEST--REPLACE IT SHOULD THE SWAP FIX YOU

I'VE BEEN HERE SINCE 'O9---THIS IS THE 2ND TIME THEY HAVE "REVAMPED/REMODELED" (OCT 17)---I'M HAVING A HARD TIME FIGGERING HOW TO GET AROUND IN HERE (ONCE AGAIN) MYSELF!!!!

I DO BEST IN THIS (CJ 7) AND THE CJ 5 FORUMS......THEY SELDOM BREAK....SO I TEND TO WONDER TO THE OTHER FORUMS!......SEE ME IN ACTION ON THEM "MEGA POSTS" (SOME OVER 100 RESPONSES).....IF YOU HAD A CJ, WE'D BE FIXED BY NOW!

https://www.2carpros.com/makes/jeep

AFTER YOU RESPOND AGAIN---I'LL GO LOOK FOR ANOTHER FELLER WHO MIGHT BE MORE UP ON YOUR SITUATION--AND GET HIM ON BOARD


THE MEDIC

"WANDER"---NOT "WONDER"!

THE MEDIC

OK, see if anyone else is able to read my previous post and come up with anything.

I would swap the module out if I had one, but I don't........I can hear the relay click so it isn't stuck.

I will have to remove the whole dashboard to get to the module, fun, fun, fun...................

Thanks
John

EVER TOOK RELAYS APART?

(ON SOME RELAY DESIGNS I'VE SEEN, THE ELECTROMAGNET YANKS ON THE MECHANICAL STUFF AND MAKES A CLICK-----THE ACTUAL CONTACTS COULD STILL BE SORTA WELDED TOGETHER.....IT'S NOT NECESSARILY THE CONTACTS "SLAPPING TOGETHER", THAT MAKES THE SOUND!!!

I WILL GO LEAVE MESSAGES WITH 2 OTHERS TO LOOK AT THIS----BE PATIENT!

THE MEDIC

Thanks, I'll be patient.

John

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED W/ MESSAGES IN THEIR MAILBOXES---LET'S SEE IF THEY SHOW NOW!


THIS KINDA STUFF HAS BEEN STUCK IN MY HEAD SINCE MAYBE 2-3 YEARS AFTER 1963....I HAVEN'T SHOOK IT YET!

THE MEDIC

Sorry for the delay in joining in. Was away for a few days.

The problem is related to the multifunction alarm module and this module runs on constant power all the time so it is highly likely that it is faulty internally. You would have to take the module out to check/test/repair or replace.

From the symptoms, I believe a capacitor inside the module is bad causing the relay to be constantly turned on.

The control unit is in the convenience center and instructions does not indicate that dash removal is required.

Are warning chimes etc all working correctly?

Thanks for your reply, what you said makes sense to me.
I am a retired electronic technician and will look into the guts of the module but without a schematic it will be difficult.
All the lights, chimes etc are working as they should, only the relay is energized all the time.

The location of the unit is such that I can see it but can't reach it because it is bolted to a frame up high between the fender wall and the glove compartment. I have a factory manual but I haven't seen anything that tells me how to remove it. I suppose I'll have to get it out before I can get the part number to get the proper module? Thanks for your reply I appreciate that.

Later
John

These are the procedures we have in our database.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

MULTIFUNCTION ALARM MODULE (MAM)

Removal & Installation

Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove convenience center insulator. Disconnect
MAM electrical connectors. Remove MAM nuts. Remove MAM assembly. To install,
reverse removal procedure. Tighten MAM nuts to 53 INCH lbs. (6 N.m).

Remove convenience center insulator?
I am not familuar with this part, is this part of the dash?

I finally got the module out. I took it apart and gave it a visual inspection, there didn't appear to be any bad componants. That small black relay in the module is the one that is turned on all the time. I found a used module on line and ordered it. I'll swap out the modules when I get it.
The chances of having the same problem with a different module are slim so if the problem stays I'll let you know,either way.

Thanks much for the help.
John

You're welcome.
Good luck.

Sorry i missed the party just saw the message from the medic please let us know what happens with the swap since you already purchased the part.If that doesnt fix the draw please let us know.ALso when pulling that fuse what does the draw drop too?

THANKS, BOTH OF Y'ALL FOR SHOWING UP!

I'M SURE I'LL NEED THE CALVARY AGAIN.....MAYBE NOT SOON

FEEL FREE TO ADD TO ANY OF MY POSTS---THE MORE INFO/ OPTIONS SOMEONE GETS, THE BETTER!

THE MEDIC

Thanks to all who helped with this Cavalier problem.
I'am not out of the woods yet but we can see what happens when the replacement module is installed. I'll be out of town for two weeks, when I get back the part should be here and I'll let you know if I did any good.

The current draw drops to about 50ma when the fuse is pulled. I sure would like to know what else besides the clock display is turned on in that ciucuit. I can't see or hear anything??

Thanks again
John

Here is a schematics of the MAM and the componets it is linked to.

Thanks for the wiring diagram. I see the fuse I have been removing goes right to the battery input of the chip (pin D), so if there is a short in the chip who knows what is powered up. I still don't know where the clock display in the radio fits in the big picture. or why is it on all the time now as long as the fuse is in the socket, it should only be on when the ignition is on?

Thanks again
John

The clock is working all the time with memory functions but the display requires the ignition switch to be in the ACC or RUN position. The problem you are having now is that the relay in the MAM is being turned on as if the ignition switch is turned to ACC or RUN.

You are right. I have to remove the fuse to keep the battery from going dead when the car isn't driven for a week. I hope when I replace the module the problem goes away.
Right now I have a 50/50 chance.

Thanks
John

Guess what, I changed the module and the problem is still there, go figure, the clock display is still on, the radio is not. If I remove the radio fuse the clock display is still on.
I checked all the door switches and they all work as they should, for what thats worth.
I am leaving on a trip monday and will be back in about ten days. Maybe somone will have a sugestion of something else to look at.

Thanks all

John

How long did you wait after turning off the ignition key and closing all doors? It can stay on from between 3 to 20 minutes depending on how long the vehicle was running.

I waited a few minutes until the dome light went out then looked thru the window and saw the clock display was still on. I only had the engine running for 3 or 4 min.

John

Try waiting up to 20 minutes and see if the clock display goes off.

Ok, I'll try that.
Why are these things so tricky ?

JOHN

These are supposed to be intelligient control systems and needs time to wake up or go to sleep so only the people who designed them would understand why they have it this way. Even diagnostic procedures are lacking. they only have diagnostics procedures for what if certain component linked to system is not working and none for what to do when they fail to turn off.

If the control module is the one causing the problem, which usually are, I wonder why it is not turning off if all components linked to it is has gone to sleep.

OK, I tried again to make it work, I disconnected the battery and put the fuse in the fuse block.
The battery was reconnected,I looked thru the door glass and the clock display was on.
No other lights were on so I opened the door, the dome light came on. I closed the door and returned one hour later. Clock display was the only thing on. I opened the door again and the dome light came on. I closed the door and watched to see how long the dome light stayed on, in a minute or less the dome light went out but the clock display was still on. I went to look at the display an hour later and it was still on. Am I missing a step in the procedure??

John

I don't see any anything that you have missed out and it has got me rethinking. Some vehicles have the clock display on all the time and this might not be the cause of the drain. Alternatively you can try diconnecting the radio harness to test if this is the problem.

The MAM is supposed to draw only between 60 - 80 mA before going to sleep and 3 - 15 mA after it sleeps. Check the currect draw again with the new MAM and see if there are any difference as compared to the 300 mA previously recorded.

When things don't go according to plan, I would always fall back to plan B, the basics, lol.

Thats a great plan khlow2008 i too were going to suggest unplugging the radio to see how it effected the draw on the system you could have a bad radio even.

I was going to try that but could not get to the plug on the back of the radio so I might still have to remove the dash to get the radio out.

I am on the road right now so I'll look into it when I get home.

Standby for news..........................

John

Alright keep us posted and have a happy thanksgiving

HAPPY THANKSGIVING SATURNTECH9 !

LOOKS LIKE NONE OF MY BABIES ARE BROKE RIGHT NOW.....THEY SEEM TO STAY THAT WAY A LOT......I HAVE TO "STRAY", JUST TO FIND SOMETHING TO WORK ON! (IS THAT CONSIDERED "CHEATING ON THEM"?)

THE MEDIC

Hope you and your family had a wonderful Thanksgiving i know i did except had to work on.two cars lol.Also yes thats cheating lol.

Hi Folks,

I have returned home and continued looking for the problem with the current draw. I bought a new ignition switch and that wasn't the problem either.

I finally decided to remove the top and front of the dash so I could remove the radio. As soon as I unpluged the the connector on the radio the current draw dropped to .073 amps which I think is more like what it should be. What do you think?? I can't put the dash back together until I do something about replacing the radio because I don't think it would be cost wise to fix it.
Is there anything that is known to be a common problem with these radio's ? A trip to the junk yard is probably in order, any thoughts on that?

Thanks again
John

If the drain is gone with the radio out of the pic looks like you found the drain.Why dont you just put a aftermarket radio in?

Thanks to all who helped me with this current draw problem. I plan to replace the radio with an after market one by the end of the week.
Put this little known problem in your black book and it will never show up again.

Thanks again
John

Make sure you get a gm pig tail so you dont have have to cut the factory harness.They sell them cheap on amazon along with install radio adapters.Your welcome thats what were here for.

IF IT COULD HELP YOU

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THIS ALLOWED ME TO USE "ONE" OF MANY PROMO CODES I COULD FIND FOR THE STORE.....THIS PARTICULAR ONE SAVED ME THE MOST FOR MY PURCHASE AMOUNT, YOU GOTTA DO YOUR HOMEWORK TO GET THE MOST OUTTA WHATEVER YOU FIND.........THIS "SYSTEM" WORKS AT AN AUTO PARTS STORE...ELECTRONICS STORES...STEAK HOUSES...USE YOUR IMAGINATION!

SINCE THEN I BOUGHT A RADIATOR--THEN ANOTHER BATTERY USING THE SAME SYSTEM---SAVED $120 TOTAL

BACK TO "NOW"

"A 124".....STILL WORKS GOOD! I JUST TRIED IT ON ONE OF THESE ITEMS

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YOU CAN DO THIS ON ANYTHING EXCEPT OIL PRODUCTS AT THIS STORE

SO, IF YOU LIKE THEIR EQUIPMENT AND IT'S AVAILABLE AT YOU LOCAL STORE (THEY WILL SHIP TO YOU TOO, I DON'T KNOW HOW SHIPPING WOULD WORK OUT) ---IF YOU PURCHASE SOMETHING(S) OVER $110 IT WILL KNOCK OFF $40MAKE MULTIPLE ORDERS, KEEP EACH ONE BARELY OVER $110 SHOULD YOU NEED MORE STUFF................WHAT A DEAL YOU HAVE STUMBLED UPON CJ MEDEVAC!!!

ANY QUESTIONS........SHOOT!

THE MEDIC